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Dogs love the chase. Be it a vehicle, jogger, child, or another dog—if it’s moving, they’ll try to catch it. Why? Understand that all canines, from the Whippet to the wolf, are programmed to capture prey, which scamper away whenever a predator appears. This flight from danger triggers the canine’s predatory instinct to chase and capture the prey.
The drive to chase is stronger in certain breeds. Herders, such as the Shetland Sheepdog or Border Collie, are infamous for going after anything that moves; their desire to control is just too powerful, so off they go nipping and barking, oblivious to traffic. Territorial or predatory breeds such as Rottweilers, Huskies, sight hounds, and most terriers can also exhibit an obsession to chase, particularly when another animal is the target. For them it’s almost obligatory to let the “invaders” know whose home they are passing. But even easy-going breeds like Labs or Poodles can surrender to the chase. It’s as much a function of learned behavior as it is breed.
An untrained dog is more apt to chase something or someone if the mood suits. Owners with little control over their dogs tend to relinquish the leadership spot, which leads to pets that do as they please. A dog without rules doesn’t know any better and will simply take off after a car, jogger, bicycle, or animal because that’s what his instincts tell him to do.
The way you interact with your dog can play a large role in persuading a dog to chase. For instance, playing chase games encourages dogs to generalize the behavior over to other individuals. Fido may have a hard time discerning the difference between chasing you in the backyard and chasing joggers down the block. Also, trips to the dog park, though great for socialization, inadvertently encourage dogs to chase other dogs. So, when a jogger or a dog trots by the home, your dog naturally goes after them.
Sit, Down, and Stay Commands
To stop your dog from chasing, first be sure he knows his basic commands, and that he will obey them not only at home, but under varied conditions with changing levels of distraction. This will ensure he obeys you even if tempted by other stimuli, such as another dog or a group of kids playing. Next, make sure he cannot run free when you are absent. No dog, especially one without rules, should be left loose and unsupervised. Finally, leave your dog in the back yard, if possible, where he will observe less traffic and territorial challenges than from the front yard. Remember, no amount of training will help if you continue to leave your dog in a front yard where traffic or people passing by will regularly reinforce his chasing instincts.
Teaching the “Come Here” command is especially useful with chasers, as it can short-circuit the dog’s reactive instinct to run after something. If you teach it properly, the fun your dog has returning to you can defeat the lure of the chase. Just be sure to master this difficult command on a long lead, before trying it off-leash.
If your dog does chase, try this. First, purchase a “face” collar, and over a few days acclimate your dog to wearing it (follow the manufacturer’s directions). Face collars work just as horse bridles do, control the head and you control the animal. Next, clip his leash onto the ring of the face collar, and then take him out to the edge of the road, preferably one where he has done some chasing before. Allow him to face the road while you linger behind, holding the leash. Be sure to have slack in the leash. When a car or person approaches, watch your dog. The moment he shows any sign of pulling or chasing, pull the leash toward you while saying “No. Leave it!” Then, walk the dog off a bit and have him sit. The correction should be just firm enough to stop his forward motion. Never pull too hard or maintain pressure on the leash, as this could hurt the dog’s neck. And remember, this training is essential to break your dog of his bad habit, so don’t feel remorseful when he looks at you reproachfully.
Walk the dog down the street a few yards, and then position yourself and the dog again in hopes that another car or person will pass. Repeat the corrections if necessary. When you notice your dog hesitating before attempting to lunge after the object, praise him mightily and give him a treat. You can even feed him his dinner in the driveway to further desensitize him to cars and people. Practice this each day until he gets the idea. Always keep your dog on leash when near the road, to prevent injury.
Once your dog masters the basics, try it with a ten-foot lead. With him by the side of the road, amble off until he is at least ten feet away. Then do the exercise the same way, correcting him for attempting to chase anything, and praising when he behaves. By moving farther away, you lessen your direct influence and allow the dog to think independently. Do this until he shows little desire to chase. Be sure, though, that the longer lead does not allow him access to the road.
By using these techniques and regularly practicing your dog’s obedience, you should be able to minimize the chasing habit. Remember though that the instinct to chase is strong; never put your dog in a position in which he can independently decide to chase anything. In addition, be sure to socialize him in controlled environments, to make social situations less stimulating. The more he learns to relax around people, the less likely he’ll be to chase them.
Rescue Angel
Tail tucked between your legs, confusion in your eyes -
I know it's hard to understand, that someone heard your cries.
When loneliness is all you know, and pain is all you feel
And no one can be trusted, and hunger's all too real...
That's the time the Lord sees you, and lets you know He's there.
That's when He sends His messengers, the hearts that love and care.
Yes, rescuers are angels, you cannot see their wings.
They keep them neatly folded, as they do their caring things.
The medicine to make you well, good food to make you strong.
And finally to help you learn, that hugs are never wrong.
The perfect place then must be found, the home where you can live.
Secure and safe and happy, with joy to get and give.
When you reach your Forever Home, your place to feel whole,
The Angels smile, and off they go, to save another soul.
Teething Schedule for Puppies and Dogs
Newborn's mouth:
Puppies, like babies, explore their world with their mouth. This means chewing — and lots of it. So just what, exactly, is going on in a pup's mouth that might make it more inclined to chew during this time in their life?
There are many different processes going on in the young puppy's mouth that could be blamed for chewing. For instance, the jaws contain multiple growth centers that can cause pain or soreness associated with bone growth. But while there are many events occurring in the mouth of the young puppy that seems insistent on chewing up your priceless furniture, the one that gets the most attention is teething. The presumption is that much of the chewing done by younger puppies is due to the itching or irritation cause by teething — along with a natural desire to explore the world via their mouth.
Like people, all dogs go through two sets of teeth in their lifetime. Beginning around 3-4 weeks of age puppies begin to cut their first teeth, called deciduous teeth, and the first of these to erupt are the incisors and the canines. The pre-molars follow these, growing-in intermittently over the next eight weeks.
Puppy's teeth at 3 1/2 months:
By the age of 12 weeks old your puppy should have a full mouth of puppy teeth. But this completion does not last long because around the same time the adult teeth — the permanent teeth — are almost ready to begin pushing through.
All teeth begin as a bud within their socket found in the jawbone. These buds grow and develop in layers, finally maturing into the structures we know as teeth. Even while maturing, the jawbones are growing. As the bones grow, the teeth remain fairly constant in their position with the jaw growing away from them, eventually resulting in their eruption through the outer layers of bone and gums of the mouth.
5 month old, view of canine tooth. In front of the puppy canine is the permanent Canine getting ready to push through:
Permanent teeth follow this same pattern. Their buds begin developing a little later than the puppy teeth, but by the time the deciduous teeth have completed their eruptions they are almost ready to begin clearing them out of they way for their own appearance. The eruption of teeth are so predictable that we us them as tools for aging dogs in which we don't now the exact birth date.
Full set of permanent teeth:
The most common problem experienced by puppies in relation to their deciduous teeth is simply that they fail to come out then they are supposed too. When this happens the teeth are referred to as being "retained." It seems that retention of puppy teeth past their normal expulsion dates is most common with the smaller breeds of canines, but can occur in large breeds as well.
View of permanent canine in front of puppy canine before it falls out:
Usually the first indication that there is a problem is when the permanent tooth erupts along side the puppy version, and the most common tooth for this to happen to is the canine. It is not unusual for this to go unnoticed by the owner. One reason for this is that initially it can be difficult to differentiate between the new erupting tooth and the existing teeth because of their similar appearance and since so many new teeth can be coming in all at once.
The difficulty encountered when extracting retained puppy teeth is variable. Some puppy teeth may still be in the mouth, but are completely free of their ligament attachments and are only loosely held in place by remnant attachments to the gum tissues. These teeth can usually be simply plucked out once the dog is asleep.
In other cases when the permanent tooth has erupted in a slightly misaligned position, the deciduous tooth can be firmly seated in the socket with all it normal ligament attachments still intact. In these cases, dental instruments are used to break down the attachment of the tooth to the jawbones allowing it to be removed and discarded.
Another time that retained puppy teeth are noticed is when older dogs are receiving oral examinations. Undoubtedly the most common complaint that prompts an oral exam is that the dog has bad breath, since this usually results from the accumulation of tarter on the teeth resulting in bacterial growth with the production of smelly by-products. During these exams, it is not uncommon to find a retained puppy canine behind its full sized counterpart.
So, be on the look out for extra puppy teeth that you think should already be gone, and consider using an approved chew toy to help your puppy cope with the normal mouthiness of puppy hood.
Teething schedule for the dog
Deciduous Teeth (puppy teeth)
Incisors |
3-4 weeks |
Canines |
3 weeks |
Premolars |
4-12 weeks |
Molars |
None |
Permanent teeth (adult teeth)
Incisors |
3-5 months |
Canines |
4-6 months |
Premolars |
4-6 months |
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Molars |
5-7 months |
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Why It's Important for Dogs to Play
Ask any dog trainer what benefits a dog gets by playing, and the answer is direct and simple:
Playing for dogs is no different than playing for humans. It's a good mental break, good physical activity, a good stress reliever. Physically, mentally, and emotionally, it's healthy.
Whether chasing a ball in the yard or using canine treadmills, exercise or play is vital in helping dogs expend pent-up energy. Without that outlet they may show behavioral problems that can range from destructive tendencies to attention-seeking antics.
Just as surely as a couch potato would benefit from a trot around the block, a dog prone to chewing the couch or digging up a garden will find a much-needed release valve in play and exercise. Often, such physical activities form an important part of resolving behavioral issues.
15 Minutes of Fun
Lack of playtime opportunities can be a common problem for dogs that are part of a family in which both "parents" work. Yet, helping your dog to get exercise through play does not always mean time-consuming walks or a canine Olympic workout: Any level or manner of activity serves a positive purpose.
For the average dog owner, retrieving is a good game, especially if it involves rewards for the dog. Retrieving is not a terribly time-consuming - few dogs last more than 15 minutes strenuously chasing a tennis ball or Frisbee.
Don't Get Too Physical
While it would be nice if a healthy dog could run 5 miles with his owner, it is not necessary that the animal's play be interactive with either the owner or other dogs. Indeed, there are potential downsides to interactive play involving two dogs, or even one owner and a pent-up pet.
Playing with other dogs can be pretty rough. Dogs like to wrestle and use their mouths. When they are playing with another dog and use their mouths, this mouthing doesn't appear to hurt the other dog but it sure hurts us.
For interactive play with a pumped-up pet, it's important to set strict ground rules. It should come as no surprise when a dog new to the game gets so excited about winning that his owner becomes part of the contest – resulting in a wrestling match to the bitter end. If you stick to retrieving, there is less potential for the game to get out of hand.
Owners who want their pet's play to be more than mere energy burning can help their dog develop coordination and "body awareness" through agility classes. Agility training involves an obstacle course for dogs in which the dog navigates the correct path through a series of barriers and tests. Most agility classes require a commitment of several weeks.
It is important to note that in the world of canine play, size isn't everything. Just because a particular breed of dog is larger than most does not mean he requires more exercise or play time. Newfound lands are one of the larger breeds, but they are actually likely to need less physical indulgence than smaller breeds, like the Parson Jack Russell terrier, for example.
Experts also recommend establishing a regular time for play – as one might arrange play dates for a child. This will help you set a routine that the animal will come to expect. Just don't be surprised if your playful pet resents it if you skip a session – and takes it out on your couch.
5 Good games to teach your dog:
Summer is a wonderful time to spend outdoors with your dog. Here's your chance to reclaim the outdoors. Get your dog and go out to your yard or the park for some fun. To help you along, we've compiled some activities and tips on how to make them more enjoyable.
Fetch
This time-honored game requires nothing but a lightweight ball of relatively soft material (if it is too hard, the ball could damage your dog's teeth) and a willing dog. Make sure the ball isn't too small, otherwise he could accidentally swallow it while leaping. (Depending on the size of the dog, even a tennis ball could be too small.)
The object is of course to have your dog bring the ball back to you. That isn't always the case; sometimes the dog trains the owner to run after the ball. Unless you don't mind running at your dog's whim, here are a few suggestions:
Don't play if your dog pushes the ball at you then snatches it away as you reach for it, or if he dances around with the ball in his mouth, teasing you. You're just reinforcing the idea that he can give you orders.
As the pack leader, YOU decide when to bring the ball out and when to throw it. Keep the ball in a special area that your dog is aware of, so when he sees you bring the ball out, he becomes excited and eager to please.
Follow the practice of performers to "leave 'em begging for more." In canine parlance, that means quit the game while he's still interested, not when he becomes bored.
Lavish praise on him immediately when he retrieves the ball and brings it to you.
You can substitute the ball with a Frisbee.
Hoops
What would you rather do, watch overpaid athletes strut around a basketball court or play hoops with your dog? Teaching him how isn't difficult, and he'll be grateful for the chance.
Take a container such as a big cooking pot, laundry basket or large plastic pail and weight it down with a heavy object (so it won't get knocked over).
Introduce your dog to the basket and the ball. As he watches, drop the ball into the bucket several times, while saying "drop it."
Give him the ball, then bring him over to the bucket and say "Drop it." Do this until he drops the ball in the basket, then immediately praise him (you might give him a small treat as well). You'll have to repeat this several times before he makes the connection between the reward and the action.
When the connection is made, roll or throw the ball to him and watch him doggie-dunk it!
Swimming
If there's a body of water nearby, your dog may want to go for a dip (only allow this if it's safe AND permitted). Most dogs take to the water like ducks, but if he's new to swimming, you'll want to make sure he can swim. Never just throw him into the water, and always supervise his water activities.
Alainna helps our young Border Collie learn to swim with the aid of a canine life jacket .
Swimming is strenuous to any creature not used to it, so don't let your dog swim for too long. If you're at the beach, watch out for strong tides, and don't let your dog drink saltwater.
Incidentally, if you take your dog to the beach, you should bring along fresh water and shade. Dogs can get sunburned too.
Hula Hoop
Begin by holding a hula hoop (still available at most toy stores, believe it or not!) upright, but on the floor. Lead your dog through the hoop, then reward him with praise or a treat (or both). Repeat several times.
Raise the hoop several inches off the ground and lead him through again. Then let him go at it!
Keep raising the hoop a little more each time to make it more of a challenge, rewarding your dog each time he makes it through. Quit before he gets bored or no longer wants the treats.
Tug-of-War
Dogs like playing tug-of-war, but it is important not to let the game get out of hand. Because dogs are, by instinct, hunters, the game reminds them of catching prey. For that reason, stop playing when the game starts to appear too serious. If your dog starts to take winning seriously, it's time to play a less competitive game. And don't ever show off your dog's grip by picking him up with the rope in his teeth.
You should also be careful in choosing the material you use. Don't use your socks or other clothing, even if your dog is still a puppy. He'll associate your clothing with the game and you may wind up with lots of holes in your socks. The material shouldn't shred easily, either, because your dog could swallow pieces. Your best bet is to pick a rope that has been specifically designed as a dog toy.
The Benefits of Playing With Your Dog
Playing with your dog not only keeps him happy and healthy; it forges a special bond between you and your pet. To learn more about the benefits of play, see the article Why it's Important for Dogs to Play.
Pet Food Label Information for Dry Food or KibbleInterpreting Pet Food LabelsThis article will give you a quick overview about what the labels on a pet food tell you - and more important what they don't tell you. It is based on the FDA consumer information provided by the Center for Veterinary Medicine . What is the AAFCO?Before getting into the specifics, I would like to outline what the often-mentioned Association of American Feed Control Officials is. This group regulates the pet food industry, and while the board consists of state and federal representatives, it is not a government body and also includes people directly involved in the industry. According to the definition on their website, the AAFCO "provides a mechanism for developing and implementing uniform and equitable laws, regulations, standards and enforcement policies for regulating the manufacture, distribution and sale of animal feeds", but if this process includes business insiders, they are likely to protect their own interests first before anything else. Information on the labelProduct NameThe product name is the first part of the label noticed by the consumer, and can be a key factor in the consumer's decision to buy the product. For that reason, manufacturers often use fanciful names or other techniques to emphasize a particular aspect. Since many consumers purchase a product based on the presence of a specific ingredient, many product names incorporate the name of an ingredient to highlight its inclusion in the product. The percentages of named ingredients in the total product are dictated by four AAFCO rules.
Warning:
If the name of a food includes the phrase "with [ingredient]" (e.g. "with beef"), the named ingredient must not be less than 3% of the total weight. Warning: The mentioned ingredient is only required to make up 3% of the total product, so it will not be descriptive of the product at all! Unless you take a close look at the ingredient lists of such foods, you are very likely to be deceived. Ingredient list example for "Product X With Real Lamb and Rice": Ground yellow corn, chicken byproduct meal, wheat, animal fat, corn gluten meal, lamb , rice, natural poultry flavor, salt, minerals, vitamins... Last but not least, if a name only includes the word "flavor" or "flavored", no specific percentage is required at all, but a product must contain an amount sufficient to be able to be detected. Warning: If you buy a "flavored" product, you are guaranteed to find only a minute amount of the flavoring ingredient in it, while the predominant ingredients are not mentioned in the name at all. Ingredient list example for "Product X with Liver Flavor": Ground yellow corn, poultry byproduct meal, brewers rice, soybean meal, beef tallow, corn gluten meal, brewers dried yeast, digest of beef liver, natural flavors, salt, vitamins, minerals... Net Quantity StatementThe net quantity statement tells you how much product is in the container. There are many FDA regulations dictating the format, size and placement of the net quantity statement. None of these do any good if the consumer does not check the quantity statements, especially when comparing the cost of products. For example, a 14-ounce can of food may look identical to the one-pound can of food right next to it. Also, dry products may differ greatly in density, especially some of the "lite" products. Thus, a bag that may typically hold 40 pounds of food may only hold 35 pounds of a food that is "puffed up." A cost-per-ounce or per-pound comparison between products is always prudent.
Warning:
If a particular brand is sold in bags of different sizes, the smaller the size, the higher the price per pound. Example: Brand X comes in bags of 5, 10, 20 and 40 pounds. A 5 lb bag costs $8, the price per pound is $1.60 A 10 lb bag costs $13, the price per pound is $1.30 A 20 lb bag costs $21, the price per pound is $1.05 A 40 lb bag costs $32, the price per pound is $0.80 As you see, you are paying twice the amount per pound when you buy the smallest bag. If you are concerned about freshness and still want to save money, consider buying a vacuum food sealer to split the content of one large bag into several smaller ones. There is no need to refrigerate or freeze vacuum packed dog food, just store it in a dark, cool and dry place. Manufacturer's Name and AddressThe "manufactured by..." statement identifies the party responsible for the quality and safety of the product and its location. If the label says "manufactured for..." or "distributed by...," the food was manufactured by an outside manufacturer, but the name on the label still designates the responsible party. Not all labels include a street address along with the city, State, and zip code, but by law, it should be listed in either a city directory or a telephone directory. Many manufacturers also include a toll-free number on the label for consumer inquiries. If a consumer has a question or complaint about the product, he or she should not hesitate to use this information to contact the responsible party. Ingredient ListAll ingredients are required to be listed in order of predominance by weight. The weights of ingredients are determined as they are added in the formulation, including their inherent water content.
Warning:
A "common or usual name" may be very obvious when looking at such ingredients like "lamb" or "ground corn", but won't be common or usual for the average consumer, who has never read the definition of ingredients like "hydrolyzed chicken protein", "digest of poultry byproducts" or "corn distillers grains with solubles". Warning:
Product B lists rice as first ingredient, but since chicken is added in already dehydrated meal form, the amount will not shrink any further. Together with the fish meal the product may contain an equal amount of animal protein and rice and is pretty much guaranteed to contain more meat than product A.
Product D has chicken meal as first ingredient, and the byproducts as second, which will lose 3/4 of their weight by the time the food reaches its final moisture content. Product D contains a larger amount of better digestible animal protein.
Here are two example ingredient lists of foods that do not contain a quality meat source whatsoever, despite the pretty images on the bag:
Guaranteed AnalysisAt minimum, a pet food label must state guarantees for the minimum percentages of crude protein and crude fat, and the maximum percentages of crude fiber and moisture. The "crude" term refers to the specific method of testing the product, not to the quality of the nutrient itself.
Warning: Different sources of protein and fat vary in digestibility and content of valuable nutrients required to maintain good health. The amount of food your dog has to eat (and conversely the amount of cleanup to do, food to buy and money to spend) strongly depends on the concentration of nutrients present in a product. Approximate digestibility values (not the "biological value", which is a completely different concept) for protein (based on information published by T.J. Dunn, Jr. DVM):
Note: The above does not refer to the total digestibility of the item, but specifically to the percentage to which the protein part can be utilized. The biological value of proteins indicates how complete a protein source is in regards to content of the essential amino acids. Combining ingredients that complement each other results in an appropriate balance of amino acids. To achieve this, not all ingredients are required to have high individual biological values. Example: if the main protein source of a food is high in biological value but has a low content of one particular amino acid, the secondary source only needs to fill that gap to create the required balance. I am not able to quote a suitable source for the BV of different protein sources, since most tables that are published are relevant for the essential amino acids for humans (histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan and valine), dogs also require arginine in their diet - humans synthesize it in the liver. Nutritional Adequacy StatementA "complete and balanced" pet food must be substantiated for nutritional adequacy by one of two means. Warning: If a product analyzed in an AAFCO laboratory meets the respective standards established by this organization, it is considered "complete and balanced" without actually being tested in feeding trials. Your dog is not a laboratory and neither are the nutritional requirements of different dogs, let alone different breeds, 100% the same. Just so you can form your own opinion, here are the AAFCO requirements for their feeding trials, passing which is often used as a major point of advertising especially for low quality foods:
There you have it - wouldn't you have expected much more stringent rules, like larger sample groups, a time frame that is longer than just 6 months (for a food your dog might well be eating his or her entire life?), less permissible weight loss for a food that is supposed to be a maintenance diet? 15% is a loss of 7.5 pounds in a 50 lb dog, and unless more than 25% of the test subjects drop out from malnutrition, in the eyes of the AAFCO there is no problem with the product. Feeding trials are also not conducted under conditions that even remotely emulate the environment of a family pet, as they are mostly conducted in kennels of research facilities. A dog who sits in a kennel run all day surely has different nutritional requirements than one who is included in much of it's owners activities and gets a moderate to high amount of exercise every day. Feeding DirectionsFeeding directions instruct the consumer on how much product should be offered to the animal. At minimum, they should include verbiage such as "feed ___ cups per ___ pounds of body weight daily. Warning: Please take these recommendations only as very basic guidelines. How much you have to feed depends on whether your goal is weight maintenance, weight loss or gain; the individual dog's age, breed, metabolism, and activity; and of course also environmental conditions. Manufacturers can over- or understate amounts depending on whether their goal is to sell more food or to make their product look more economical than a competitor's. Calorie StatementUntil recently, calorie statements were not allowed on pet food labels. New AAFCO regulations were developed to allow manufacturers to substantiate calorie content and include a voluntary statement. Warning: Caloric statements can be found in three different values:
It is easily possible to compare "apples and oranges" unless the Metabolizable Energy (ME) of all compared products is taken into consideration. Example 1: Other Label ClaimsMany pet foods are labeled as "premium," and some now are "super premium" and even "ultra premium." Other products are touted as "gourmet" items. Products labeled as premium or gourmet are not required to contain any different or higher quality ingredients, nor are they held up to any higher nutritional standards than are any other complete and balanced products. Warning: Manufacturers are not required to include substances in the ingredient list that they did not add to the product themselves. Products they obtain from their suppliers may still contain undesirable ingredients such as synthetic preservatives and/or other additives. A prime example is fish meal, which, according to US Coast Guard regulations, must be preserved with Ethoxyquin if it is not destined for human consumption. So while terms like "human grade", "human quality", "table quality" etc. may not be legally defined, they still provide some information about the quality of certain ingredients and the way they are handled before they end up in the food product. If words like "hormone free", "organic" etc. are used, it is not likely that such ingredients are feed grade or low quality. SummaryThe pet food label contains a wealth of information, if one knows how to read it. Do not be swayed by the many marketing gimmicks or eye-catching claims. If there is a question about the product, contact the manufacturer or ask an appropriate regulatory agency. It is correct that the pet food label contains a wealth of information, but it can be very misleading to anyone who has not read up much on the topic - and to be honest, would you unless you have a reason? Almost every single element of the label information is of ambiguous nature and seems to favor the interests of the manufacturer over those of the consumer. Unfortunately, until a more truthful, customer-friendly labeling system is implemented, the majority of pet owners will be swayed by marketing gimmicks and eye-catching claims because watching cute commercials requires less effort than understanding the information on the label. |
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We have a major problem in the U. S. today. Our dogs and our people aren't getting along.
The bond begins to break in early puppy hood when house soiling, chewing, biting and other problems aren't stopped.
Statistics from the HSUS indicate that house training issues and behavioral problems are among the top reasons dogs are surrendered to shelters every year.
If these simple problems are not addressed, bigger problems usually follow, particularly during a dog's adolescent stage.
If and when the dog finally makes it to adulthood (normally two years of age), one of three things happen:
(1) the long-suffering owners will learn to live with the monsters they have created;
(2) those who are "fed up" will get rid of the dog by selling it, giving it away, surrendering it to a humane society or having it euthanized; or
(3) those with patience will finally being to take control and train the dog.
All three scenarios can be avoided by proper training in the early stages of a dog's life.
Most people think they can easily live with a dog -- any dog. But without the knowledge of how to properly train our dogs and the ability to enforce the training, we can't. In most cases we need to learn -- via classes, private instruction, books -- how to train our dogs. We also need to discipline ourselves in order to repeat the basic exercises ("sit," "stay", "come") until they are second nature to our canines, and to enforce our rules on our pets.
There are many techniques that can be used to train a dog. Most important, however, is that the owner be willing to use the techniques, and to set and follow a course of action.
Proper dog training is not a "quick fix" - it is an ongoing, life-long process.
By now, you're probably saying to yourself, "I don't want to deal with a method, all I want is a pet." But what you really want is, in fact, a pretty tall order. All you'd like is for an infant dog to assimilate into our modern, urban, human society with all of its complexities, and do it with no hitches.
You'd like the puppy to learn, although it doesn't speak a language, that is should not eliminate in the two thousand square foot area we call the "house," but that it should do so on the grass or soil - and, if leashed, only when you allow it to.
You'd also like the puppy to eat whatever you put down when you feed him, and to never touch food above his head.
You'd like him to sleep when you do, even though you've left him alone all day and he's slept most of that time. He also should not whine or bark because that is considered to be disturbing, and should ride quietly in a car, walk by your side both on and off the leash, always come when called, and never leave the yard even if you leave him unattended for hours.
Well, great dogs are made and not born.
To get them to that level of behavior, you must train, and train, and train again. Whether you teach from books, classes, private instruction or your own past experiences, you must teach a dog to do what you want it to. That teaching, too, must be at a level the dog can understand.
You need a direction, you need patience, and you need time.
Typically, you can expect to spend a year working on the basics, and two years for more advanced training. It seems like a long time when you're just starting. But if you follow through, a lifetime of companionship and unconditional love will then be yours.
To get started in the right direction, read about the AKC's Canine good Citizen program!
Touch Me, a poem by Susan Krauser
Touch me with your voice as a puppy young and new,
And let me know my presence is what is pleasing you.
Touch me with your spirit, for I was sent here to you,
To teach you of that precious bond known by the choicest few.
Touch me with your hands as I grow tall and strong,
I need you as my mentor throughout my whole life long.
Touch me with your lips, and brush them softly on my brow,
Please kiss away the fears that I am feeling now.
Touch me with your eyes as I become full grown,
To validate unspoken love that we have always known.
Touch me with your heart as our bond keeps growing stronger
And words need not be used in our language any longer.
Touch me with your breath, soft and warm upon my face,
As I try to bring you comfort in life's never ending race.
Touch me with your love when my muzzle turns to gray,
I live my life to please you, each and every single day.
Touch me with your scent when age has dimmed my sight,
To reassure me always that you will be my light.
Touch me with your face when your tears are meant for me,
So I may bear your pain and let your heart be free.
Touch me with remembrance when I have traveled on,
And, I will hold your heart in mine forever when I'm gone...
I Rescued A Human Today by Janine Allen CPDT
I rescued a human today.
Her eyes met mine as she walked down the corridor peering apprehensively into the kennels. I felt her need instantly and knew I had to help her. I wagged my tail, not too exuberantly, so she wouldn't be afraid.
As she stopped at my kennel I blocked her view from a little accident I had in the back of my cage. I didn't want her to know that I hadn't been walked today. Sometimes the shelter keepers get too busy and I didn't want her to think poorly of them.
As she read my kennel card I hoped that she wouldn't feel sad about my past. I only have the future to look forward to and want to make a difference in someone's life. She got down on her knees and made little kissy sounds at me.
Satin Meatballs - The Original Recipe
Ingredients
10 pounds hamburger meat [the cheapest kind]
1 lg. box of Total cereal
1 lg. box oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ
1 1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 1/4 cup of un sulfured molasses
10 raw eggs AND shells (I puree them in a blender/food processor)
10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin or Knox joint gelatin
pinch of salt
Mix all ingredients together in a HUGE bowl, much like you would a HUGE meatloaf. Divide into one quart freezer bags…this should make 10 bags. Thaw as needed and feed raw!
Per the information received after having the Satin Balls recipe checked by several vets/labs:
Satin Balls is a total canine diet. It can be fed by itself or as a supplement, for however long you wish. My dogs have been on Satin Balls for over a year; the only time that I have fed it alone is when I had a sick dog needing to be built up or an underweight dog that came in through rescue.
Helpful Notes:
Because this recipe is so heavy, and you are making a big batch, you may need to mix the ingredients together with your hands. Because you are handling raw meat and uncooked eggs, you should wear Playtex gloves. Wearing gloves will also help you to avoid getting eggshells stuck or embedded under your fingernails. The first time I made this recipe, I got an eggshell sliver under my nail and it hurt like hell!
Trial and error will determine the quantity you should be feeding. A simple rule of thumb is to feed 3% of your dog’s body weight in raw food. A 20 lb dog will need approximately 9.6 oz of raw food per day, for example.
This recipe will put weight on a dog in a few days. If you have a dog that is in good weight, but you just want to build coat/endurance, you should recalculate portions and reduce the ratio up to 1-1.5%.
Got a picky eater…here you go! I have NEVER had a dog turn away from this recipe.
Have skin or coat problems? Feed this out and your dogs will stop all the itching and chewing at their coats/skin, their eyes get this bright look and the energy level goes out the roof. It will also make your dog’s coat soft and color vibrant.
This is a fairly expensive recipe to make and there are quite a few ingredients. For that reason, consider using Satin Balls as a supplemental feed. I give about a 1/2 cup each morning to maintain beautiful coats, energy level, and a full appetite. I feed quality organic kibble at night.
Try using the Knox Joint Gelatin instead of the plain Knox unflavored gelatin. Joint Gelatin is high in Vitamin C and protein, and is good for the joints; it would be great for the dogs, especially older ones!
To make this recipe with fewer calories per serving, try using leaner meat, and skip the molasses.
I shop Sam’s Club for a lot of the ingredients, but locally (in New England) Demoulas/Market Basket prices are just as good, and they have all the ingredients including the Knox gelatin.
Fix some up and let your dogs enjoy. They will love you forever and forever!
Generally, a dog on a raw diet should consume 2.5% of it's body weight in raw food per day.
The following chart will help you determine how much raw food your dog should be eating :
if fed 2x's |
||||||
Dog's |
per day: |
|||||
weight/lbs |
lbs food/day |
oz. per day |
lbs per serving |
oz/serving |
||
100 |
2.50% |
2.5 |
40 |
1.25 |
20 |
|
95 |
2.50% |
2.375 |
38 |
1.1875 |
19.00 |
|
90 |
2.50% |
2.25 |
36 |
1.125 |
18.00 |
|
85 |
2.50% |
2.125 |
34 |
1.0625 |
17.00 |
|
80 |
2.50% |
2 |
32 |
1 |
16.00 |
|
75 |
2.50% |
1.875 |
30 |
0.9375 |
15.00 |
|
70 |
2.50% |
1.75 |
28 |
0.875 |
14.00 |
|
65 |
2.50% |
1.625 |
26 |
0.8125 |
13.00 |
|
60 |
2.50% |
1.5 |
24 |
0.75 |
12.00 |
|
55 |
2.50% |
1.375 |
22 |
0.6875 |
11.00 |
|
50 |
2.50% |
1.25 |
20 |
0.625 |
10.00 |
|
45 |
2.50% |
1.125 |
18 |
0.5625 |
9.00 |
|
40 |
2.50% |
1 |
16 |
0.5 |
8.00 |
|
35 |
2.50% |
0.875 |
14 |
0.4375 |
7.00 |
|
30 |
2.50% |
0.75 |
12 |
0.375 |
6.00 |
|
25 |
2.50% |
0.625 |
10 |
0.3125 |
5.00 |
|
20 |
2.50% |
0.5 |
8 |
0.25 |
4.00 |
|
15 |
2.50% |
0.375 |
6 |
0.1875 |
3.00 |
|
10 |
2.50% |
0.25 |
4 |
0.125 |
2.00 |
|
5 |
2.50% |
0.125 |
2 |
0.0625 |
1.00 |
Now that I’m home, bathed settled and fed,
All nicely tucked in my warm little bed.
Let’s open my baggage, before I forget,
There’s so much to carry, so much to regret.
Yes, here it is, right on the top,
Loneliness, heartache, and plenty of Loss,
And here by my leash hides fear and shame,
And let’s not forget to unpack the pain.
Do you have the time to help me unpack?
Will you look at my things, and take me right back?
I pray that you won’t, I’m so tired you see,
But I do come with baggage, do you still want me?
Dogs are most commonly given aspirin for treatment of arthritis and associated joint pain. There may be other situations where your dog is in pain, where aspirin may give relief.
Aspirin has good anti-inflammatory effects that reduces swelling. It can also reduce pain and fever. These effects will help make your dog more comfortable.
Note that a dog is not a human. Just because your dog "does not feel good" is not a reason to give it an aspirin. Usually, aspirin is given to relieve extreme conditions of discomfort. Also note that most vets prescribe Rimadyl as a better pain-killer and anti-inflammatory than aspirin.
You should use caution In administering any medication to a pet, because too much may be toxic, the medicine may not be tolerated, or it can cause an upset stomach or ulcers in the animal.
It can be toxic if given in high doses of about 30 mg per pound of the dog. This means that even baby aspirin could be poisonous for dogs weighing two pounds or less. An adult aspirin which is 320 mg. would be toxic for a 10-pound dog. To be sure that you are using the aspirin for the right reason and at the right dose, you should consult your veterinarian first.
Aspirin is poorly tolerated by young dogs, since they lack the enzymes necessary to process the aspirin. The same is true for most cats.
Aspirin can cause gastrointestinal upsets and ulcers in dogs, just as in humans. You should pay attention to your dog's eating habits when administering aspirin to watch for signs of an upset stomach. If there are any signs of ulcers, such as blood-tinged vomiting, it is important to stop the aspirin.
Giving the aspirin with food and using buffered aspirin is the best to prevent stomach problems.
I prefer to grind up the aspirin and put it in some food to make sure it does not irritate the stomach lining.
You should not give your dog such products as Tylenol as a substitute for real aspirin. Some people say their vet prescribed Tylenol, but most sources say it should not be given to animals.
Most veterinarians recommend between 5 mg and 10 mg per pound of the dog's weight every 12 hours. Going on the safe side, a recommended dosage of aspirin of about 5 mg/lb seems to work well for most dogs. If you are going to give more, it is a good idea to check with your vet. Also, note that a small dog should take less per pound.
Enteric coated aspirin is not recommended in dogs because about half the time the coating isn't digested and the aspirin is excreted whole in the stool.
It is better to start off small and work your way up to the maximum. If the dog has relief with a smaller dosage, that is great.
A standard aspirin is 320 mg. A baby aspirin is typically 80 mg. That means that 5 mg/lb works out to be one baby aspirin per 16 pounds of body weight twice a day.
The following chart can be used as a guide. Note that this is not medical advice.
Weight of dog in pounds |
Number of tablets each 12 hours |
mg |
8 |
1/2 baby aspirin or less |
40 mg |
16 |
1 baby aspirin |
80 mg |
32 |
1/2 adult or 2 baby |
160 mg |
48 |
3/4 adult or 3 baby |
240 mg |
64 |
1 adult or 4 baby |
320 mg |
80 |
1 1/4 adult or 5 baby |
400 mg |
96 |
1 1/2 adult or 6 baby |
480 mg |
The proper dosage of aspiring can give your dog relief from pain and inflammation. You should be aware of possible problems and know the proper dosage. It is good to check with a vet before giving any medication, and remember that dogs are not humans and don't need an aspirin for minor pains.
by API, the Animal Protection Institute
Whole chickens, choice cuts of beef, fresh grains and all the wholesome nutrition your dog or cat will ever need.
These are the images pet food manufacturers promulgate through the media and advertising. This is what the $10 billion per year U.S. pet food industry wants consumers to believe they are buying when they purchase their products.
This report explores the differences between what consumers think they are buying compared to what they are actually getting. This document focuses in very general terms on the most visible name brands -- the pet food labels that are mass distributed to supermarkets and grocery stores -- but there are many smaller, more highly respected brands that may be guilty of the same offenses.
What most consumers are unaware of is that the pet food industry is an extension of the human food industry, also known as the agriculture industry. Pet food provides a place for slaughterhouse waste and grains considered "unfit for human consumption" to be turned into profit. This waste includes cow tongues, esophagi, and possibly diseased and cancerous meat. The "whole grains" used have had the starch removed and the oil extracted -- usually by chemical processing -- for vegetable oil, or they are the hulls and other remnants from the milling process. Some of the truly whole grains used may have been deemed unfit for human consumption because of mold, contaminants, or poor storage practices.
Four of the five major pet food companies in the United States are subsidiaries of major multinational food production companies: Colgate-Palmolive (Hills Science Diet Pet Food), Heinz (9 Lives, Amore, Gravy Train, Kibbles n Bits, Recipe, Vets), Nestle (Alpo, Fancy Feast, Friskies, Mighty Dog) and Mars (Kal Kan, Mealtime, Pedigree, Sheba). From a business standpoint, multinational food companies owning pet food manufacturing companies is an ideal relationship. The multinationals have a captive market in which to capitalize on their waste products, and the pet food manufacturers have a reliable source from which to purchase their bulk materials.
There are hundreds of different pet foods available in this country. And while many of the foods on the market are virtually the same, not all of the pet food manufacturing companies use poor quality and potentially dangerous ingredients.
Although the purchase price of pet food does not always determine whether a pet food is good or bad, the price is often a good indicator of quality. It would be impossible for a company that sells a generic brand of dog food at $9.95 for a 40-lb. bag to use quality protein and grain in its food. The cost of purchasing quality ingredients would be much higher than the selling price.
The protein used in pet food comes from a variety of sources. When cattle, swine, chickens, lambs, or any number of other animals are slaughtered, the choice cuts such as lean muscle tissue are trimmed away from the carcass for human consumption. Whatever remains of the carcass -- bones, blood, pus, intestines, ligaments, and almost all the other parts not generally consumed by humans -- is used in pet food. These "other parts" are known as "by-products" or other names on pet food labels. The ambiguous labels list the ingredients, but do not provide a definition for the products listed. (See Article - Selecting a Commercial Pet Food for a more detailed list of ingredient definitions.)
The Pet Food Institute -- the trade association of pet food manufacturers -- acknowledges the use of by-products in pet foods as additional income for processors and farmers: "The purchase and use of these ingredients by the pet food industry not only provides nutritional needs for pets at reasonable costs, but provides an important source of income to American farmers and processors of meat, poultry and seafood products for human consumption."
Many of these remnants are indigestible and provide a questionable source of nutrition for our animals. The amount of nutrition provided by meat by-products, meals, and digests can vary from vat to vat. James Morris and Quinton Rogers, two professors with the Department of Molecular Biosciences, University of California at Davis Veterinary School of Medicine, assert that, "There is virtually no information on the bioavailability of nutrients for companion animals in many of the common dietary ingredients used in pet foods. These ingredients are generally by-products of the meat, poultry and fishing industries, with the potential for a wide variation in nutrient composition. Claims of nutritional adequacy of pet foods based on the current Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) nutrient allowances ('profiles') do not give assurances of nutritional adequacy and will not until ingredients are analyzed and bioavailability values are incorporated."
Another source of meat you won't find mentioned on pet food labels are dogs and cats. In 1990 the San Francisco Chronicle reported that euthanized companion animals were being used in pet food. Although pet food manufacturers vehemently denied the report, the American Veterinary Medical Association confirmed the Chronicle's story.
Protein is protein once it is rendered. What is rendering? Rendering, as defined by Webster's Dictionary, is "to process as for industrial use: to render livestock carcasses and to extract oil from fat, blubber, etc., by melting."
What can the feeding of such ingredients do to your companion animal? Some veterinarians claim that feeding slaughterhouse wastes to animals increases their risk of getting cancer and other degenerative diseases. One factor is that the cooking methods used by pet food manufacturers and rendering plants do not destroy many of the hormones used to fatten livestock, or medications such as those used to euthanize dogs and cats.
You may have noticed a unique, pungent odor when you open a new bag of pet food -- the smell of restaurant grease from a hundred fast food restaurants. What is the source of that delightful smell? It is refined animal fat, kitchen grease, and other oils too rancid or deemed inedible for humans.
Restaurant grease has become a major component of feed grade animal fat over the last fifteen years. This grease, often held in fifty-gallon drums, is usually kept outside for weeks, exposed to extreme temperatures with no regard for its future use. The next few times you dine out, be sure to look out back behind the restaurant for a container with a rendering company's name on it. It is almost guaranteed that you will find one. "Fat blenders" or rendering companies then pick up this rancid grease and mix the different types of fat together, stabilize them with powerful antioxidants to retard further spoilage, and then sell the blended products to pet food companies.
These fats are sprayed directly onto dried kibble or extruded pellets to make an otherwise bland or distasteful product palatable. The fat also acts as a binding agent to which manufacturers add other flavor enhancers as well. Pet food scientists have discovered that animals love the taste of these sprayed fats. Manufacturers are masters at getting a dog or a cat to eat something she would normally turn up her nose at.
The amount of grain products used in pet food has risen over the last decade. Once considered filler by the pet food industry, grain products now make up a considerable portion of pet food. The availability of nutrients in grain products is dependent upon the digestibility of the grain. The amount and type of carbohydrate in pet food determines the amount of nutrient value the animal actually gets. Dogs and cats can almost completely absorb carbohydrates from some grains, such as white rice. Up to 20% of other grains can escape digestion. The availability of nutrients for wheat, beans, and oats is poor. The nutrients in potatoes and corn are far less available than those in rice. Carbohydrate that escapes digestion is of little nutritional value due to bacteria in the colon that ferment carbohydrates. Some ingredients, such as peanut hulls, are used strictly for "filler" and have no nutritional value at all!
Two of the top three ingredients in pet food are almost always some form of grain products. Pedigree Performance Food for Dogs lists Ground Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal, and Corn Gluten Meal as its top three ingredients. 9 Lives Crunchy Meals for cats lists Ground Yellow corn, Corn Gluten Meal, and Poultry By-Product Meal as its first three ingredients. Since cats are true carnivores -- they must eat meat to fulfill certain physiological needs -- one may wonder why we are feeding a corn-based product to them. The answer is that corn is much cheaper than meat.
Of the top four ingredients of Purina O.N.E. Dog Formula -- Chicken, Ground Yellow Corn, Ground Wheat, and Corn Gluten Meal -- two are corn-based products ... the same product. This industry practice is known as splitting. When components of the same whole ingredients are listed separately -- such as Ground Yellow Corn and Corn Gluten Meal -- it appears there is less corn than chicken, even though the combined weight of the corn ingredients outweigh the chicken.
In 1995 Nature's Recipe pulled thousands of tons of dog food off the shelf after consumers complained that their dogs were vomiting and losing their appetite. Nature's Recipe's loss amounted to $20 million. The problem was a fungus that produced vomitoxin, an aflatoxin, which is a subset of mycotoxin, a poison given off by mold contaminated the wheat.
Although it caused many dogs to vomit, stop eating and have diarrhea, vomitoxin is a milder toxin than most. The more virulent strains of mycotoxins can cause weight loss, liver damage, lameness, and even death. The Nature's Recipe incident prompted the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to intervene. Dina Butcher, Agriculture Policy Advisor for North Dakota Governor Ed Schafer, concluded that the discovery of vomitoxin in Nature's Recipe wasn't much of a threat to the human population because "the grain that would go into pet food is not a high quality grain."3 Which means that the grain used in pet food is not fit for human consumption and therefore not a threat to the human population.
Soy is another common ingredient that is sometimes used as filler in pet food. Manufacturers use it to add bulk so that when an animal eats a product containing soy he will feel more sated. While soy has been linked to gas in some dogs, other dogs do quite well with it. Vegetarian dog foods use soy as a protein source.
Industry critics note that many of the ingredients used as humectants -- ingredients such as corn syrup and corn gluten meal which bind water to prevent oxidation -- also bind the water in such a way that the food actually sticks to the colon and may cause blockage. The blockage of the colon may cause an increased risk of cancer of the colon or rectum.
Many additives are added to commercial pet foods to improve the stability or appearance of the food. Additives provide no nutritional value. Additives include emulsifiers to prevent water and fat from separating. Antioxidants prevent fat from turning rancid and antimicrobials reduce spoilage. Added color and flavor make the product more attractive to consumers and their companion animals.
How prevalent are synthetic additives in pet food? Two-thirds of the pet food manufactured in the United States contains preservatives added by the manufacturer. Of the remaining third, 90% includes ingredients already stabilized by synthetic preservatives. Premixed vitamin additives used to supplement pet food can also contain preservatives. This means that your companion animal may eat food with several types of preservatives that have been added at the rendering plant, the manufacturing plant and in the supplemental vitamins.
Adding chemicals to food originated thousands of years ago with spices, natural preservatives and ripening agents. In the last 40 years, however, the number of food additives has greatly increased. Of the more than 8,600 recognized food additives today, no toxicity information is available for 46% of them. Cancer-causing agents are sometimes permitted if they are used at low enough levels. The risk of continued use at these cancer-causing agents has not been studied and the build up of these agents may be harmful. Ethoxyquin (EQ), for example, was found in dogs' livers and tissues months after it had been removed from their diet, and as of July 31, 1997, the FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine requested that manufacturers reduce the maximum level for EQ be cut in half, to 75 parts per million.
While the law requires studies of direct toxicity of these additives and preservatives, most of these additives have not been tested for their effect on each other once ingested. Three commonly used preservatives, BHA, BHT, and EQ, have a proven synergistic effect that may lead to the development of certain types of cancer.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxtoluene (BHT) are the most commonly used antioxidants in processed food for human consumption. For these antioxidants, there is little information documenting their toxicity or the safety of long-term use in pet food.
In animal feeds, the most commonly used antioxidant preservative is ethoxyquin. While some pet food critics and veterinarians claim ethoxyquin is a major cause of disease, skin problems, and infertility in dogs, others claim it is the safest, most stable preservative available for pet food. Ethoxyquin is not approved for use as a preservative in human food, however.
Nitrate is the exception to the rule when it comes to safety. Nitrate is used in meat for human consumption. When nitrate combines with bacteria, the chemical can change to another form with carcinogenic properties called nitrosamines. Very small amounts of this chemical can cause acute and chronic liver damage.
"Natural preservatives" and antioxidants are known as Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and mixed tocopherols. While the avoidance of using pet food laced with chemical preservatives is something to consider, some critics think that natural preservatives are somewhat less effective than chemical preservatives.
Although feed trials are no longer required for a food to meet nutritional standards and profiles, most manufacturers do require a palatability study when developing a new pet food. Animals are fed side by side, one animal fed a new food while the other is fed a similar formula. The total volume eaten is used as a gauge for the palatability of the food. Most pet food companies keep their own animals for taste testing.
Dry food is made with a machine called an expander. First, raw materials are blended, sometimes by hand, other times by computer, in accordance with a recipe developed by nutritionists. The mixture is fed into an expander and steam or hot water is added into the mixture. The mixture is subjected to steam, pressure, and heat until the temperature reaches 305 degrees F. The mixture is then extruded through dies that determine the shape of the final product. Then it is cooked at a high temperatures and high pressure. Then the food is allowed to dry for another 30-45 minutes. Once the food is dried it is usually sprayed with fat to make it more palatable. Although the cooking process may kill bacteria in pet food, the final product can lose its sterility, during the subsequent drying, fat coating, and packaging process.
Ingredients are the same for wet and dry foods. The main difference between the two types of food is the water content. Wet or canned food begins with ground ingredients mixed with additives. If chunks are required, a special extruder forms them. Then the mixture is cooked and canned. The sealed cans are then put into containers resembling pressure cookers and commercial sterilization takes place. Some manufacturers cook the food right in the can.
There are three primary types of wet food. The "all meat" product is defined by AAFCO as "When an ingredient or a combination of ingredients derived from animals, poultry, or fish constitute 95% or more of the total weight of all ingredients of a pet food, the name or names of such ingredient(s) may form part of the product name of the pet food; provided that where more than one ingredient is part of such product name, then all such ingredient names shall be in the same size, style, and color print. For the purpose of this provision, water sufficient for processing shall be excluded when calculating the percentage of the named ingredient(s). However, such named ingredient(s) shall constitute at least 70% of the total product.
The "dinner" product is defined as "When an ingredient or a combination of ingredients constitutes at least 25% but less than 95% of the total weight of all ingredients of a dog or cat food mixture, the name or names of such ingredient or ingredients may form a part of the product name of the pet food if each of the ingredients constitute at least 3% of the product weight excluding water used for processing and only if the product name also includes a primary descriptive term such as 'dinner', 'platter', or similar designation so that the product name describes the contents of the product in accordance with an established law, custom or usage or so that the product name is not misleading. If the names of more than one ingredient are shown, they shall appear in the order of their respective predominance by weight in the product. All such ingredient names and the primary descriptive term shall be in the same size, style and color print. For the purpose of this provision, water sufficient for processing shall be excluded when calculating the percentage of the named ingredient(s). However, such named ingredient(s) shall constitute at least 10% of the total product."
The "flavor" product is formulated to have a specific flavor, and it is defined as "No flavor designation shall be used on a pet food label unless the flavor is detected by a recognized test method, or is one the presence of which provides a characteristic distinguishable by the pet. Any flavor designation on a pet food label must either conform to the name of its source as shown in the ingredient statement or the ingredient statement shall show the source of the flavor. The word flavor shall be printed in the same size type and with an equal degree of conspicuousness as the ingredient term(s) from which the flavor designation is derived. Distributors of pet food employing such flavor designation or claims on the labels of the product distributed by them shall, upon request, supply verification of the designated or claimed flavor to the appropriate control official."
R. L. Wysong, veterinarian and long time critic of the pet food industry, has said, "Processing is the wild card in nutritional value that is, by and large, simply ignored. Heating, freezing, dehydrating, canning, extruding, pelleting, baking, and so forth, are so commonplace that they are simply thought of as synonymous with food itself."7 The processing practices for grain and meat used in pet food severely diminishes its nutritional value.
To make pet food nutritious, pet food manufacturers must "fortify" it with vitamins and minerals. Why? Because the ingredients they are using are not wholesome, and the harsh manufacturing practices destroy what little nutritional value the food had to begin with.
Commercially manufactured or rendered meat meals are highly contaminated with bacteria because their source is not always slaughtered animals. Animals that have died because of disease, injury, or natural causes are a source of meat for meat meal. The dead animal may not be rendered or cooked until days after its death. Therefore the carcass is often contaminated with bacteria -- Salmonella bacteria contaminate 25-50% of meat meals. While the cooking process may kill bacteria, it does not eliminate the endotoxins that result from the bacteria. These toxins can cause disease. Pet food manufacturers do not test their products for endotoxins.
Escherichia coli (E Coli) is another bacteria that can be found in contaminated pet foods. E Coli bacteria, like Salmonella, can be destroyed by cooking at high temperatures, however, the endotoxin produced by the bacteria will remain. This endotoxin can cause disease as well.
Aflatoxin -- This is a toxin that comes from mold or fungi, as in the case of Nature's Recipe. The improper drying and storage of crops is the cause of mold growth, which can result in Aflatoxin contamination. Ingredients that are most likely to be contaminated with this toxin are cottonseed meal, peanut meal, and fish meal.
The National Research Council (NRC) of the Academy of Sciences set the nutritional standards for pet food until 1974, when the pet food industry created a group called the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). At that time AAFCO chose to adopt the NRC standards rather than develop its own. The NRC standards required feeding trials for pet foods that claimed to be "complete" and "balanced." The pet food industry found the feeding trials to be too restrictive, so AAFCO designed an alternate procedure for claiming the nutritional adequacy of pet food. Instead of feeding trials, chemical analysis would be done to determine if a food met or exceeded the NRC standards.
The problem with chemical analysis is that it does not address the palatability, digestibility and biological availability of nutrients in pet food. Thus it is unreliable for determining whether a food will provide an animal with sufficient nutrients.
To compensate for the limitations of chemical analysis, AAFCO added a "safety factor," which was to exceed the minimum amount of nutrients required to meet the complete and balanced requirements. By establishing its own standards and disregarding the NRC standards, AAFCO established itself as the governing body for pet food. In essence the pet food industry developed their own standards for nutritional adequacy.
The digestibility and availability of nutrients is not listed on pet food labels. For more information about reading and understanding pet food labels, see Article - Selecting a Commercial Pet Food (scroll down to "Pet Food Shopping Checklist").
The idea of one pet food providing all the nutrition a companion animal will ever need for its entire life is a myth
Cereals are the primary ingredients in most commercial pet foods. Most people select one pet food and feed it to their dogs and cats for a prolonged period of time. Therefore companion dogs and cats eat a primarily carbohydrate diet with little variety. Today, the diets of cats and dogs are a far cry from the primarily protein diets with a lot of variety that their ancestors ate. The problems associated with a commercial diet are seen every day at veterinary establishments. Chronic digestive problems, such as chronic diarrhea, are among the most frequent illnesses treated.
Allergy or hypersensitivity to foods is a common problem usually seen as diarrhea or vomiting. Food allergies have become an everyday ailment. The market for "limited antigen" also known as "hypoallergenic" diets is now a multi-million dollar business. These diets were formulated to address the increasing intolerance to foods that animals have developed.
Many commercial pet foods are made with ingredients that have poor protein digestibility. Diets containing protein with less than 70% digestibility cause diarrhea in dogs. Some fillers used in these foods can also cause colitis, which is the inflammation of the colon. Most pet food companies do not publish digestibility statistics and they are never seen on pet food labels.
Acute vomiting and diarrhea is often a symptom of bacteria contamination and the toxins bacteria produce. Dry commercial pet food is often contaminated with bacteris, which may or may not cause problems. Improper food storage and some feeding practices may result in the multiplication of this bacteria. For example, adding water to moisten pet food and then leaving it at room temperature causes bacteria to multiply. Yet this practice is suggested on the back of some kitten and puppy foods.
Pet food formulas and the practice of feeding that manufacturers recommend have increased other digestive problems. Feeding only one meal per day can cause the irritation of the esophagus by stomach acid. Feeding two smaller meals is better.
Urinary tract disease is directly related to diet in both cats and dogs. Plugs, crystals, and stones in cat bladders are caused by commercial pet food formulas. One type of stone found in cats is less common now, but another more dangerous type has become more common. Manipulation of manufactured cat food formulas to affect acidity in urine and the amount of some minerals has directly affected these diseases. Dogs also form stones as a result of their diet.
History has shown that commercial pet food products can cause disease. An often-fatal heart disease in cats and some dogs was shown to be caused by a deficiency of an amino acid called taurine. Blindness is another symptom of taurine deficiency. This deficiency occurred because of inadequate amounts of taurine in cat food formulas. Cat foods are now supplemented with taurine.
Rapid growth in large breed puppies has been shown to contribute to bone and joint disease. Excess calories in manufactured puppy food formulas promote rapid growth. There are now special puppy foods for large breed dogs. But this recent change will not help the countless dogs who lived and died with hip and elbow disease.
There is also evidence that hyperthyroidism in cats results from commercial pet food diets. This is a new disease that first surfaced in the 1970s, when canned food products appeared on the market. The exact cause and effect are not yet known. This is a serious and sometimes terminal disease and treatment is expensive.
Many nutritional problems appeared with the popularity of cereal-based commercial pet foods. Some occur because the diet is incomplete. Some are a result of additives. Others are a result of contamination with bacteria, toxins and other organisms. In some diseases the role of commercial pet food is understood, in others, it is not. The bottom line is that diets composed primarily of low quality cereals and rendered meat meals are not as nutritious or safe as you should expect for your cat or dog.
The Animal Protection Institute recommends the following books, many of which include recipes for home-prepared diets:
These two books list the ingredients and nutritional information for most commercial pet foods:
Here's a list of what vaccinations you should give to your puppy and when you should give your puppy vaccinations.
Puppies - 6 weeks to 1 year
6 to 8 weeks - First puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
11 to 12 weeks - Second puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
15 to 16 weeks - Third puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
Over 4 months - Rabies (repeat l year later)
7 to 9 months - First heartworm test
Adult Dogs - After 1 year
What you should know about canine parvovirus.
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What is canine parvovirus type 2c?
Canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) is the virus that causes "parvo" enteritis in dogs. There are several variants of CPV-2; all of the variants of CPV-2 are genetically related.
CPV-2c differs from CPV-2a and CPV-2b at only one point on the DNA strand
Canine parvovirus type 2c (CPV-2c) is a variant of canine parvovirus. It was first detected in Italy in 2000, and has also been reported in Western Europe, Asia, and South America. Outbreaks of canine parvovirus associated with CPV-2c in the United States were confirmed in 2006 and 2007.
Canine parvovirus type 2b (CPV-2b) is the most common variant of the canine parvovirus in the United States, but CPV-2c is becoming the second most common variant.What type of infection does CPV-2c cause?
CPV-2c causes similar signs as those seen with infection with CPV-2a and CPV-2b. These include loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea (which may be bloody), and dehydration. The bloody diarrhea might be mild or absent with CPV-2c infection, but affected dogs are more likely to stop eating. Without treatment, many affected animals die. Severe cases may die despite aggressive treatment.
Who is susceptible to CPV-2c infection?
The risk for infection with CPV-2c and other variants of the canine parvovirus (as well as many other infectious diseases) is highest when large numbers of dogs are housed together in close confinement, such as boarding/training kennels, shelter facilities, dog shows, and racing greyhound kennels. Dogs of all ages and breeds are susceptible to infection, but puppies and unvaccinated or improperly vaccinated dogs are at higher risk of infection and illness. There is no evidence that CPV-2c, or the other canine parvovirus variants, can infect people.
How is CPV-2c transmitted?
As with other parvoviruses, CPV-2c is highly contagious and is spread by direct dog-to-dog contact and contact with contaminated feces (stool), environments or people. The virus can also contaminate kennel surfaces, food and water bowls, collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs.
How is CPV-2c infection diagnosed?
Because the signs are similar for CPV-2a, CPV-2b and CPV-2c infection and illness, the types cannot be distinguished by examination or the signs of disease observed. Commercially available fecal tests are able to detect all variants of CPV-2, including CPV-2c.
What is the treatment for CPV-2c infection?
As with the other variants of canine parvovirus, treatment of individual dogs consists of supportive care and efforts to replace lost fluids and electrolytes, control vomiting and diarrhea, and prevent secondary infections. There is no specific anti-viral therapy for CPV-2c infection. Since CPV-2c and other variants of canine parvovirus are highly contagious, isolation of infected dogs is necessary to minimize spread of infection.
Is there a vaccine for CPV-2c?
Although there is no vaccine to specifically prevent CPV-2c infection, studies have shown that all of the currently available vaccines produced by the five major vaccine manufacturers (Fort Dodge Animal Health, Intervet, Merial, Pfizer and Schering-Plough), when administered appropriately, provide excellent immunity to all variants of the canine parvovirus.
Puppies should receive a dose of canine parvovirus vaccine between 14 and 16 weeks of age, regardless of how many doses they received earlier, to develop adequate protection.How is CPV-2c infection managed?
Strategies for reducing the spread of CPV-2c infection are the same as those for other variants of CPV, and include isolation of ill dogs (as well as any dogs exposed to ill dogs), biosecurity measures (such as changing of clothes and hand washing after handling affected dogs), and effective sanitation. Parvoviruses are very hardy, are resistant to many disinfectants, and can survive in the environment for long periods of time.
How is CPV-2c infection prevented?
When a dog develops parvo, treatment can be very expensive, and the dog may die despite aggressive treatment. Vaccinating your dog is the most effective way to prevent infection.
Dogs with vomiting or diarrhea or other dogs which have been exposed to ill dogs should not be taken to kennels, show grounds, dog parks, or other areas where they will come into contact with other dogs. Similarly, unvaccinated dogs should not be exposed to ill dogs or those with unknown vaccination histories. People who are in contact with sick or exposed dogs should avoid handling of other dogs or at least wash their hands and change their clothes before doing so.
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