C and C Kennel, 75 Sullivan Rd., Hudson, NH 03051 (603)-881-3721
Our Puppies:
Curious puppies
At C and C Kennel, our goals are very simple - we strive to match sound, happy, pug puppies with stable, loving homes.
We provide a healthy foundation for our pups by ensuring a great start. Our pups are handled from day one and closely monitored throughout their growth.
We raise our pups using the Bio Sensor Program developed by the U.S. Military in their canine program. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, it is, therefore, of great importance to the individual.
The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized five exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference, the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:
1. Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.
2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds
3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds
4. Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. While on its back, do not restrain from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.
5. Thermal stimulation - use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.
These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life.
These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.
Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises:
1. Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
2. Stronger heart beats,
3. Stronger adrenal glands,
4. More tolerance to stress
5. Greater resistance to disease
Read more about this process at : Breeding Better Dogs
We typically sell our pups between 9 to 12 weeks of age. By this time, we have in depth insight into each puppy's developing personality! At 8 weeks, our pups receive their first set of puppy shots, are wormed, micro chipped, and given their health certificates through our licensed Veterinarian. Follow up vaccinations follow at 4 week intervals.
For more on vaccination schedules please visit: Vaccination Schedule for Dogs
We provide new owners with a generous supply of puppy food, a schedule for follow-up vet care, and a 100% money back health guarantee. AKC registration will follow proof of neutering unless otherwise discussed.
Because you're nobody 'till some Puggie loves you!
Sorry, no litters are planned for this year.
Looking for local breeders? Contact the Breeder Referral Coordinator for The Patriot Pug Dog Club, Alan Alford!
Attention Breeders: For help determining due dates, reference this fabulous Perpetual Pregnancy Calendar
Did you know that the ASPCA lists water as the most important nutrient for healthy pets? To read the article, go to the ASPCA's web site
Specific health conditions related to poor hydration and water quality:
Our pet's water bowl always seems to be empty until we found this great automatic watering system.
To read more about it click here!
Developmental Stages of Puppies and Dogs
How to have a well socialized Puppy and Dog:
A well socialized mother dog is generally more likely to have well socialized puppies. Puppies separated from their littermates and mother too early often don't develop appropriate "Social Skills," such as learning how to send and receive other dog signals, what an "inhibited bite" means, how to play appropriately and the limits of each behavior. Appropriate play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. Interacting with their mother and littermates helps them learn "how to be a dog" and is also a vital way to explore ranking (who's in charge).
Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. The following stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppy hood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years.
The following chart provides general guidelines for the stages of development.
3 - 7 weeks = Socialization Period
This Period can be broken up into two stages: Awareness (3-4 weeks) and Curiosity (5-7 weeks) Stages.
Awareness Stage
Curiosity Stage
What we do during this stage
8 - 12 Weeks = Imprinting Stage
What you can do during this stage --
3 - 6 Months Ranking and Preadolescence
What you can do during this stage --
6 - 18 Months = Adolescence
What you can do during this stage:
Life according to Macy: "Run, romp, and play daily.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm.
Never bite when a simple growl will do."
Having trouble house training your Pug? Print this article for reference and employ this strategy for house training success!
Tips for solving house training problems, drafted by Jim Barry with inputs from the members of CPDT.
If you have applied the basic house training principles of supervision, crating, scheduling and rewarding success, and your dog is still eliminating in inappropriate locations, try these techniques.
Vet Checkup: If your dog has continuing problems, or has a relapse after having been successfully housetrained, your first step should be a trip to the vet. Ask your vet to check for a urinary tract infection, an intestinal parasite, a congenital deformity or another medical problem that could contribute to difficulty in controlling bowels and bladder. Also, be aware that some medications can affect elimination patterns; your vet can provide more information.
House training Weekend: It can be helpful to take a long weekend to devote to house training. Stay home with your dog and go out every hour, generously rewarding each success. If you can keep it up for 3 or 4 days, progress is often very rapid.
Substrate Management: Dogs can develop a preference for eliminating on certain types of surfaces. If this has occurred in your home, you may be able to obtain a sample of that surface—say, a carpet—and put it outside so that your dog learns to go there. You can then gradually reduce the size of the sample.
Seeding: Because dogs return to eliminate in the same area, you may find it useful to take some of your dog’s feces or urine and use it to “seed” an outside area. Then take your dog out and encourage it to go in that place.
Avoid Inadvertent Reinforcement: Elimination is an inherently reinforcing behavior, because it reduces the physical discomfort that your dog feels. Be sure not to add to that reinforcement by giving the dog attention after an accident. Even negative attention can be reinforcing, so don’t yell at your dog; just try to interrupt if possible and relocate outside.
Reinforce on Purpose: When you take your dog outside for a walk, wait until it eliminates and then use the walk as a reward, not the other way around. And be sure to have other high value reinforcers for your dog like treats or favorite toys available after, and only after, proper pottying.
Pee on Cue? You may find it very helpful to put elimination on a verbal cue. Just as the dog is beginning to eliminate, say "Do your business" or "Get busy", or whatever you want to use for a verbal cue. Once the cue is paired with a good reward history, it often helps to keep the dog focused on the task at hand.
Poop is Precious: People sometimes get the idea that dogs leave droppings for them out of spite. Nothing could be farther from the truth! Dogs, unlike people, find smelly stuff very attractive. And they know you do too, because they see you pick it up and take it away. So it sometimes helps to ensure your dog is elsewhere when you are cleaning up accidents.
You just came in! Poop, Pug, Poop by Robot Johnny
If the dog is toileting in the house, make sure you address diet after he has a vet check up. Eliminate all corn and wheat. For our article about "Reading Pet Food Labels", click here.
If you have established that the dog is marking, and not toileting, clean the carpet as thoroughly as possible, and create a common smell between the dog and the "den".
Use lavender oil (but you can choose whatever scent you like), about 10 drops per cup of water in a spray bottle. Spray all the areas that the dog has access to, his pillows/sofa, crate etc, and put the scented water on your hand and rub it on your dog.
(Now, if you think the smell is too much, you have used too much! This is for the dog to smell, not for us! It should barely be possible for the humans to smell it.)
You'll need to repeat every other day, for weeks, perhaps months.
Dogs who mark tend not to want to cover their own scent.
If the dog tends to always go in the same area, feed the dog in that area. You can "scatter-feed" the dog there. Just sprinkle his food over the area. Leave a bowl of water there too. Again, dogs tend not to mess their eating area.
Finally, use supervision and confinement. Always assume that if the dog gets out of sight, he's marking somewhere. Put a bell on the dog so you know where he is at all times and use some form of confinement (like access to kitchen and family room only) so you don’t have to supervise the entire house. If you leave the family room/kitchen area, take the dog with you!
And obviously, you need to take the dog outside to potty and make sure he goes! Many people just put the dog out, and never check on what's going on. You must witness the toileting before the dog comes back in! Reward your dog for peeing/pooping outside and your dog will quickly learn that is a "good" behavior!
Marking is harder to eliminate than toileting, but these few tricks have worked every time when owners are compliant. (Diet/ lavender oil/supervision/confinement/potty breaks supervised by owner.)
Stick to it! Good luck!
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