Our Puppies:

 

Curious puppies.

At C and C Kennel, our goals are very simple - we strive to match sound, happy, pug puppies with stable, loving homes.

We provide a healthy foundation for our pups by ensuring a great start. Our pups are handled from day one and closely monitored throughout their growth.

We raise our pups using the Bio Sensor Program developed by the U.S. Military in their canine program. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, it is, therefore, of great importance to the individual.

 

 

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized five exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference, the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

1. Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.

2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

4. Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. While on its back, do not restrain from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

5. Thermal stimulation - use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life.

These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises:

1. Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
2. Stronger heart beats,
3. Stronger adrenal glands,
4. More tolerance to stress
5. Greater resistance to disease

We typically sell our pups between 9 to 12 weeks of age. By this time, we have in depth insight into each puppy's developing personality! At 8 weeks, our pups receive their first set of puppy shots, are wormed, micro chipped, and given their health certificates through our licensed Veterinarian. Follow up vaccinations follow at 4 week intervals.

For more on vaccination schedules please visit: Vaccination Schedule for Dogs

We provide new owners with a generous supply of puppy food, a schedule for follow-up vet care, and a 100% money back health guarantee. AKC registration will follow proof of neutering unless otherwise discussed.

 

Because you're nobody 'till some Puggie loves you!

Sorry, we do not have any litters planned for the upcoming season.

 

Fall '09 litter, born Thursday, Oct 22, '09 - 5 puppies, 2 girls, 3 boys.

 

Pictures of some of our newborn pugs, just hours old! FYI When fawn pugs are born, their little noses are pink, their noses will turn black in 5 to 7 days. Black pugs are born with black noses.

 

Photos of the litter 11/28/09:

 

Attention Breeders: For help determining due dates, reference this fabulous Perpetual Pregnancy Calendar

 

Developmental Stages of Puppies and Dogs

 

How to have a well socialized Puppy and Dog:

A well socialized mother dog is generally more likely to have well socialized puppies. Puppies separated from their littermates and mother too early often don't develop appropriate "Social Skills," such as learning how to send and receive other dog signals, what an "inhibited bite" means, how to play appropriately and the limits of each behavior. Appropriate play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. Interacting with their mother and littermates helps them learn "how to be a dog" and is also a vital way to explore ranking (who's in charge).

Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. The following stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppy hood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years.

The following chart provides general guidelines for the stages of development.

3 - 7 weeks = Socialization Period

This Period can be broken up into two stages: Awareness (3-4 weeks) and Curiosity (5-7 weeks) Stages.

Awareness Stage

• Puppy is able to use senses of sight and hearing.
• Learning begins.
• It is a time of very rapid sensory development. A stable environment is crucial. It is important not to overload them.
• Radical changes in the environment must be avoided, i.e., do not move the whelping box!
• It is essential that the puppy remain with the litter and the mother.
  
  What we do during this stage

• Each day introduce a new surface such as concrete, linoleum, wood, carpet, matting, etc.
• Always move them two at a time to make it less stressful than one at a time
• Very mild auditory stimuli is introduced, such as a radio playing quietly.
  

Curiosity Stage

• The brain reaches the final stage of development
• Little to no sense of fear and is quick to approach anything and anybody
• Awareness of difference between Human and Canines is evident
• Weaning begins at this point

  What we do during this stage

  • Introduce him to as many different people, situations and things as possible. Make the sessions short (5 minutes at most)
  • Introduce him to other animals. Supervise carefully! An unfortunate incident could scar him for life.
  • Allow the puppy to investigate
  • Provide many stimulating toys and things to do
  • Hold, cuddle, groom and manipulate puppy during handling sessions

8 - 12 Weeks = Imprinting Stage

• At 8 weeks your puppy experiences another fear period, making 8 weeks a pour choice to move him to a new home! He may become hesitant about new objects and situations. He may become cautious and suspicious. If nothing traumatic occurs the puppy will bounce back to his resilient self at 9 weeks
• He is learning at a very fast pace; his character traits and personality will develop so rapidly and what he learns will become permanently fixed
• His interaction with other animals and people will influence him for the duration of his life
• You and he will have the ability to achieve a strong bond
• He will start learning by associations and is capable of learning "how to learn"

  What you can do during this stage --

  • Protect him from things that could have a lasting effect on him during the 8 week period
  • Apply mild restrictions to help him develop proper behaviors; i.e., No chewing on slippers, biting, jumping or barking. No biting at socks, feet, or pant legs!
  • Take him to new safe places
  • Introduce him to the car
  • Start introducing games (Hide & Seek, Retrieve and Follow)
  • Set up appropriate play sessions with other puppies, dogs and people
  • Continue to provide stimulating and fun toys

3 - 6 Months Ranking and Preadolescence

• Puppy is fully developed and needing lots of experience
• Beginning to see and use ranking (dominant and submissive) within the pack, including humans
• Teething and associated Chewing
• Four months another fear stage -- flight response developing may flee from real or perceived threats

  What you can do during this stage --

  • Enroll in Training Classes...we offer a great training program, and we'll travel to you!
  • Be consistent! Make sure that everyone in the house is on the same program and participating
  • Do not give into your puppy and do not allow him "to get away with things"
  • Continue physically restraining, grooming and holding
  • Continue to socialize to new areas
  • Continue to enrich his environment
  • Continue to provide fun and stimulating toys

6 - 18 Months = Adolescence

• Most influence by human and dog "pack" members
• Second chewing phase -- part of exploring territory
• Exploration of dominance -- including challenging humans
• If not Spayed or Neutered, beginnings of sexual behavior
• Sometimes can go through a third fear stage

  What you can do during this stage:

  • RE ENROLL in Training classes...reinforce what your pup knows and continue to challenge him!
  • Keep your training fun...check out Rally-O and Agility Classes!
  • Remind them of leadership rules in the house
  • Treat as if they are 8-12 weeks again (More exercise and less freedom)
  • Provide lots of toys and more exercise
  • Hang in there, things will get better! ALL dogs go through this difficult time!!!
    

   

  

  Life according to Macy: "Run, romp, and play daily.
  Eat with gusto and enthusiasm.
  Never bite when a simple growl will do."
  

  Having trouble house training your Pug? Print this article for reference and employ this strategy for house training success!

  House Training Tips

  Tips for solving house training problems, drafted by Jim Barry with inputs from the members of CPDT.

  If you have applied the basic house training principles of supervision, crating, scheduling and rewarding success, and your dog is still eliminating in inappropriate locations, try these techniques.

  • Vet Checkup: If your dog has continuing problems, or has a relapse after having been successfully housetrained, your first step should be a trip to the vet. Ask your vet to check for a urinary tract infection, an intestinal parasite, a congenital deformity or another medical problem that could contribute to difficulty in controlling bowels and bladder. Also, be aware that some medications can affect elimination patterns; your vet can provide more information.

  • Supervise, Supervise, Supervise: Supervision means just that—your incompletely housetrained dog must be under constant observation between potty trips. That means in a crate, on a leash attached to you or in the same room and within a few feet of your location. Otherwise you won’t be able to detect those signs of immanent elimination like circling or sniffing and respond promptly. And every event that you miss makes your task more difficult.
  • Diet and Exercise: Be sure that you are feeding your dog a high quality food, preferably one with natural and organic ingredients. Some dogs have sensitivities to particular foods or to chemicals used as preservatives or as color or flavor enhancer's. These sensitivities can affect the dog’s digestive system and contribute to house training problems. See our article on Reading Pet Food Labels. Also, ensure that your dog gets plenty of healthy exercise—at least half an hour of vigorous activity each day—to keep it physically fit.
  • Record Keeping: Start to keep a house training journal. This has two purposes: 1) to discern patterns in the dog’s elimination activities related to time of day, meals and water, exercise, location and other factors. Knowing the patterns can help to head off problems. 2) to evaluate progress. House training problems are rarely solved instantly, but good records will help you to find trends that can be reassuring.
  • Crate Modification: Some dogs will eliminate in the crate if it is too large. A rule of thumb is that the crate should be big enough for the dog to stand and turn around, but not much larger. You can partition a large crate to make it smaller, and move the partition as your dog grows. If your dog has eliminated in its crate, you will need to remove and thoroughly clean any padding; it’s often useful to do away with all padding until your dog is keeping the crate clean. You may also want to invest in a new crate of a different type to give your dog a new, clean den.

  • House training Weekend: It can be helpful to take a long weekend to devote to house training. Stay home with your dog and go out every hour, generously rewarding each success. If you can keep it up for 3 or 4 days, progress is often very rapid.

  • Substrate Management: Dogs can develop a preference for eliminating on certain types of surfaces. If this has occurred in your home, you may be able to obtain a sample of that surface—say, a carpet—and put it outside so that your dog learns to go there. You can then gradually reduce the size of the sample.

  • Seeding: Because dogs return to eliminate in the same area, you may find it useful to take some of your dog’s feces or urine and use it to “seed” an outside area. Then take your dog out and encourage it to go in that place.

  • Avoid Inadvertent Reinforcement: Elimination is an inherently reinforcing behavior, because it reduces the physical discomfort that your dog feels. Be sure not to add to that reinforcement by giving the dog attention after an accident. Even negative attention can be reinforcing, so don’t yell at your dog; just try to interrupt if possible and relocate outside.

  • Reinforce on Purpose: When you take your dog outside for a walk, wait until it eliminates and then use the walk as a reward, not the other way around. And be sure to have other high value reinforcers for your dog like treats or favorite toys available after, and only after, proper pottying.

  • Pee on Cue? You may find it very helpful to put elimination on a verbal cue. Just as the dog is beginning to eliminate, say "Do your business" or "Get busy", or whatever you want to use for a verbal cue. Once the cue is paired with a good reward history, it often helps to keep the dog focused on the task at hand.

  • Poop is Precious: People sometimes get the idea that dogs leave droppings for them out of spite. Nothing could be farther from the truth! Dogs, unlike people, find smelly stuff very attractive. And they know you do too, because they see you pick it up and take it away. So it sometimes helps to ensure your dog is elsewhere when you are cleaning up accidents.

  • Be a Crime Scene Investigator: If there have been a lot of accidents in your home, you may need to go to great lengths to find and clean up the entire residue. To do this, buy an ultraviolet light bulb, put it in a small lamp and plug into a long extension cord. Wait until nighttime, turn off all of the other lights and close the shades. Carefully inspect your entire home with the black light. Thoroughly clean any areas that glow, always using an enzyme-based cleaner, until there is no more sign of stains. (Be sure to consistently use an enzyme cleaner; standard household or carpet cleaners will not completely remove odor and may attract dogs back to the same area.
  • House training Aids: Some dog owners have had success with pads or litter boxes, even when their dogs didn't get the knack of going outside. Even so, dogs must be trained to use these aids, using sound management and reinforcement. As a last resort, you can try doggy diapers (which are especially great for Pugs)!
    
    
  • Above all, remember that supervision and consistency are the keys to house training success. Yelling at your dog after the fact (although very tempting at times!) does nothing but create anxiety for your Pug and possibly more house training troubles!

  

  You just came in! Poop, Pug, Poop by Robot Johnny

  More Potty Training Tricks

  If the dog is toileting in the house, make sure you address diet after he has a vet check up. Eliminate all corn and wheat. For our article about "Reading Pet Food Labels", click here.

  
  If you have established that the dog is marking, and not toileting, clean the carpet as thoroughly as possible, and create a common smell between the dog and the "den".
  
  Use lavender oil (but you can choose whatever scent you like), about 10 drops per cup of water in a spray bottle. Spray all the areas that the dog has access to, his pillows/sofa, crate etc, and put the scented water on your hand and rub it on your dog.
  (Now, if you think the smell is too much, you have used too much! This is for the dog to smell, not for us!  It should barely be possible for the humans to smell it.)

  You'll need to repeat every other day, for weeks, perhaps months.
  
  Dogs who mark tend not to want to cover their own scent.
  
  If the dog tends to always go in the same area, feed the dog in that area. You can "scatter-feed" the dog there.  Just sprinkle his food over the area.  Leave a bowl of water there too. Again, dogs tend not to mess their eating area.
  
  Finally, use supervision and confinement.  Always assume that if the dog gets out of sight, he's marking somewhere. Put a bell on the dog so you know where he is at all times and use some form of confinement (like access to kitchen and family room only) so you don’t have to supervise the entire house. If you leave the family room/kitchen area, take the dog with you!
  
  And obviously, you need to take the dog outside to potty and make sure he goes!  Many people just put the dog out, and never check on what's going on. You must witness the toileting before the dog comes back in! Reward your dog for peeing/pooping outside and your dog will quickly learn that is a "good" behavior!
  
  Marking is harder to eliminate than toileting, but these few tricks have worked every time when owners are compliant. (Diet/ lavender oil/supervision/confinement/potty breaks supervised by owner.)
  
  Stick to it! Good luck!

 



 



 

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